Hemming trousers by hand. Hem women's classic trousers.

30.05.2018 Style and fashion

Every woman, sooner or later in her life, is faced with the need to hem her trousers. And sometimes running around in search of the nearest studio is so scary that it seems easier to take on and cope with the task on your own. And practice shows that in fact it is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. This article will look at several of the most common ways to hem trousers at home. First of all, the stages of the entire process of shortening trouser legs and several of the most common seams used by professional seamstresses will be considered in order to create a neat bottom of the product. After all, many housewives are probably wondering how to properly hem trousers by hand or using a sewing machine.

First stage: fitting

Naturally, to make the legs of the required length, you should put on the product and, if possible, put on shoes. In the classic version of trousers for men and women, the back panel of the trouser leg should be below the middle of the heel of the shoes. Therefore, we tuck the trouser leg, turning it up, and mark the bottom with a needle, tailor's chalk or a piece of soap. For jeans, the same procedure is carried out, but for men it is necessary to leave the length of the trouser leg, slightly extending to the heel, and for women's trousers there are several nuances:

  1. The finished flared trouser leg should reach the middle of the heel.
  2. It is unacceptable for tight trousers to bunch up at the shins. Their length should be ankle-length.
  3. When shortening a trouser leg with cuffs, you should not subject it to model changes, this will radically change appearance products. Therefore, the shaped parts should be preserved.

Stage two: remove excess

So, the fitting has been done, the necessary mark is there, now you need to figure out how to properly hem classic-cut trousers. First of all, turn the product inside out, fold the trouser leg along the arrows and find the mark on the back panel. A line is drawn from it through the entire trouser leg at a right angle. Next, on the front part, the trouser leg rises by 0.5 cm, the second strip is drawn at such an angle that it intersects in the middle of the seam with the already drawn mark. After this, you should cut off the excess edge of the trouser leg at a distance of 4 cm from the laid line, taking into account that the front part should be higher. The same preparatory work carried out on the second leg, which should be made identical.

In the case of jeans, both straight and flared, it will be enough to simply cut off all the excess in a straight line, leaving 3-5 cm for the hem. The same applies to cropped trousers.

Third stage: create a seam

It is impossible to say unequivocally how to properly hem men’s trousers, because there are quite a lot of options that craftswomen use. However, this is even good, because everyone can choose the most convenient method for themselves. For example, many people use adhesive and grosgrain tape, while others prefer hand stitching to machine stitching. All options for hemming trousers using this or that material need to be considered in more detail.


Option one: hemming with adhesive tape

In any sewing accessories store you can find the so-called “spider web”, which is used to shorten trouser legs. It comes in two types: paper-based and without. It will be easier for beginners to work with the first one, since a ribbon without a base requires some experience. How to hem trousers with adhesive tape, what is needed for this? First of all, you should carry out the first two stages described above, then overcast the sections of the trouser legs so that the threads do not fray and the edge is neat. To do this, you can use an overlocker, zigzag, or simply sew the edge with a loop seam by hand.

Next, the pant leg, turned inside out, is folded 4 cm outward and the fold is smoothed through gauze, then along the edge, almost along the very cut, a cobweb is laid on the base and glued with an iron. The paper is removed, the fold is returned to its place and the turned edge is thoroughly ironed through gauze and steamed. For reliable fixation, the folded part in place of the side seams is sewn with several stitches so that they are not visible from the outside. front side.


Option two: hemming on a typewriter

It cannot be said that every woman’s household should have a sewing machine, because not everyone is interested in sewing. And if this unit is still available, then the task of shortening the legs becomes much easier. How to hem trousers using sewing machine? Firstly, all the preparatory work described above should be done. Then you can start working directly with the machine.

Today, many sewing units are equipped with special stitches for invisible hemming of the edge of the product. And if a straight seam is suitable for shortening jeans, then for classic trousers it is necessary to have in the list of machine operations exactly the line for creating an inconspicuous hem.


How to hem jeans using a machine

If you need to shorten jeans, then there should be no difficulties at all, since hemming trousers of this type is very easy. In this case, the trouser leg is measured and cut 3 cm below the mark, then folded in two turns to a width of 1.5 cm and a straight line is laid. In order for it not to differ much from the factory one, you should choose the right thread color, but it is not at all necessary to take a special thread for jeans, because not all machines can work with it. Many craftswomen lay the seam in two layers with an ordinary thin "magpie".

How to hem jeans while maintaining a decorative seam

It also happens that trousers that have an original design with scuffs and various stitches become less attractive when shortened. Therefore, in order not to spoil the appearance, you should use a method that will preserve all the model features of the product. To do this, you should consider how to properly hem trousers while maintaining the factory edge.

First, measure the required length of the trousers and put a mark. Next, measure the factory edge and move the mark upward to the distance of this measurement. Next, the trouser leg is folded to match the offset line and the base of the factory edge, and a stitch is sewn on the sewing machine. After this, the resulting excess part is cut off and stitched with a zigzag or overlock, using adhesive tape and an iron, this lapel is attached to the trouser leg. Finally, on the front side, a stitch is laid along the very edge of the combination of the trouser leg and the factory design of the bottom of the product.


How to hem trousers using a machine

Everything is clear with jeans, but how to hem men's dress pants using a machine? After the cuts on the trouser legs are processed and the hem is pressed, they are folded so that the main seam runs almost along the cut itself, and the lunges capture only a few threads of fabric on the main trouser leg. To create a smooth and durable edge that will not bend or wrinkle, many seamstresses resort to using keeper tape. It is sewn with a straight stitch along both sides at the border of the fold on the inside of the trouser leg, and then it is folded in and an invisible seam is laid. This is a fairly popular method, which to some extent extends the life of the product, because with a compacted edge, the fabric on the fold does not wear out so quickly and holds its shape well for a long time.


Option three: hand hemming

If for some reason you were unable to take your trousers to the studio on time, do not despair, because you can shorten them even without a sewing machine, the main thing is to do everything as carefully as possible. So how do you hem trousers by hand? First, you need to try them on and mark the length. Afterwards, cut off the excess parts of the trouser legs, overcast the edges with a loop seam, tuck them to the required length and thoroughly steam the fold. After this, you can start laying the seam. Here you should sew in a special way so that the folded edge is securely fastened and the stitches are not visible from the front side. The “goat” seam is ideal for such requirements, which when finished from the inside out looks like a pattern of crosses with an offset center. Knowing how to hem trousers using this seam, you can cope with the task even without a sewing machine. The main thing is to learn how to make neat, even stitches and use a thin thread and a very sharp needle.

Every woman should know how to properly hem men's trousers, because it is not always possible to use the services of professional seamstresses. And besides, if you learn to do it yourself, it is quite possible to save a little.

Today I want to address a moment that arises in the life of almost every person. We bought trousers, but they are not the right length. The legs dangle on the floor, or gather like a huge accordion around the foot. Of course, they need to be shortened. There are quite a few methods, but they all depend on the model of trousers.

? This primarily applies to classic models, on which the mark of the hem should not be visible.

For example, I took men's trousers. I will note one nuance. To ensure that the work is not done in vain, you first need to very carefully measure the length of the trousers on the specific person who will wear them in the future.

If you do not have this opportunity, then you can take this person’s other trousers and measure the length of the leg along the crotch seam, which is located on the inside of the trousers. This time I did just that. I marked out the desired length with soap and got to work.

For convenience, I moved the mark to the outside of the trouser leg and laid the trousers flat on the table.


The next step was to measure right angles using a corner that coincided with the position of the mark and the direction of the arrows on the back and front halves of the trousers. I drew straight lines.



Then the resulting line needs to be slightly fused in its middle part.


I set aside 3.5 cm from the resulting line down. This is the minimum amount that needs to be set aside.

There are several reasons for this:

  • The trousers may suddenly shrink and you will have to bend them down. We need a supply.
  • Less hemming gives a visible seal.

In order for both trouser legs to be cut equally, they must be folded evenly along the entire length of the trousers, and sometimes it doesn’t hurt to pierce them with needles from top to bottom. Be sure to connect both pant legs with needles along the intended hem line.


Now you can safely cut it off. If it is difficult to cut four layers of fabric at once, then do it gradually. First cut off the excess length on one leg and then on the other.

I moved the position of the needles to the other side with soap.



I did the same thing separately with each pant leg. Although you can do this using a measuring tape, measuring along the inside of the trousers 3.5 cm from the bottom. For a high-quality hem, it is advisable to process the resulting lower cut with an overlocker, and tuck the tails of the threads inside the stitch using a hook.



After this, you can begin manual filing. Turning the trousers inside out, I pinned the width of the hem with needles. Be sure to connect the side seams on the hem and on the leg. Similarly, I placed the needles at a distance of 1 cm from the top edge of the hem. This must be done to ensure that the pant leg does not move.


Next, I sewed the edge of the hem to the pant leg using a blind stitch. To do this, you need to insert the needle exactly into the stitch from the overlocker (you can even get into the stitches themselves) and grab one or two threads of the trouser leg. Then bring the needle back to the overlock stitch. The distance between punctures should not be more than 0.5 -1 cm. Thus, we hem the trousers along the entire length.



Here's what I got. All that remains is to iron them out. If you are dealing with trousers that have creases, then first you need to iron the places where they are located.


Turning the pants right side out, I ironed the seam allowance inside the leg. It is not advisable to do this from the face, as the overlock may be printed. Steam the arrows from the front side using a cloth.



That's all. This is where the whole process ends.


Now you know how to properly hem trousers by hand, and you are sure that, if necessary, you can easily cope with this operation.

Of course, to be more confident that everything will be fine in the future, it is advisable to decatify new thing. Give it either a good steam treatment or wet it and let it dry. This will allow the product to shrink as required, and will save you from worry in the future. Everyone knows that natural fabrics tend to shrink.

But you can take a risk and hem your trousers without pre-processing. This is at your discretion.

author of text and photo: Saenko Natalia for the portal Osinka.ru

To shorten ready-made suit trousers, it is not at all necessary to have special skills and abilities. The main thing is to have a sewing machine, attention and accuracy. In this master class, our regular reader Saenko Natalia explains and shows in detail how to hem trousers with braid at home.

Master Class. How to hem trousers

Probably every buyer of classic suit trousers has encountered the problem of their length at least once in their life. In a good store, the buyer is often offered to shorten trousers for free upon purchase, or they recommend a studio where this can be done for an additional fee. However, if you have a sewing machine at home, you can easily do this yourself!

Our regular reader, participant in the 2009 master class competition, Natalia Saenko, tells in great detail how to hem trousers at home without much effort. To work, you will need the trousers themselves, ready-made trouser braid, chalk, a square, and pins.

04. ... and then connect to label No. 1
05. New trousers may shrink and we need to leave an allowance in in this example 4.5 cm.
06. We draw a line parallel to the first one 4.5 cm lower. We cut off the excess. We sew the edge using an overlocker or zigzag.

Hello, Dear friends! Today I want to address a moment that arises in the life of almost every person. We bought trousers, but they are not the right length. The legs dangle on the floor, or gather like a huge accordion around the foot. Of course, they need to be shortened. There are quite a few methods, but they all depend on the model of trousers. ? This primarily applies to classic models, on which the mark of the hem should not be visible.

For example, I took men's trousers. I will note one nuance. To ensure that the work is not done in vain, you first need to very carefully measure the length of the trousers on the specific person who will wear them in the future.

If you do not have this opportunity, then you can take this person’s other trousers and measure the length of the leg along the crotch seam, which is located on the inside of the trousers. This time I did just that. I marked out the desired length with soap and got to work.

For convenience, I moved the mark to the outside of the trouser leg and laid the trousers flat on the table.


The next step was to measure right angles using a corner that coincided with the position of the mark and the direction of the arrows on the back and front halves of the trousers. I drew straight lines.



Then the resulting line needs to be slightly fused in its middle part.


I set aside 3.5 cm from the resulting line down. This is the minimum amount that needs to be set aside.

There are several reasons for this:

  • The trousers may suddenly shrink and you will have to bend them down. We need a supply.
  • Less hemming gives a visible seal.

In order for both trouser legs to be cut equally, they must be folded evenly along the entire length of the trousers, and sometimes it doesn’t hurt to pierce them with needles from top to bottom. Be sure to connect both pant legs with needles along the intended hem line.


Now you can safely cut it off. If it is difficult to cut four layers of fabric at once, then do it gradually. First cut off the excess length on one leg and then on the other.

I moved the position of the needles to the other side with soap.



I did the same thing separately with each pant leg. Although you can do this using a measuring tape, measuring along the inside of the trousers 3.5 cm from the bottom. For a high-quality hem, it is advisable to process the resulting lower cut with an overlocker, and tuck the tails of the threads inside the stitch using a hook.



After this, you can begin manual filing. Turning the trousers inside out, I pinned the width of the hem with needles. Be sure to connect the side seams on the hem and on the leg. Similarly, I placed the needles at a distance of 1 cm from the top edge of the hem. This must be done to ensure that the pant leg does not move.


Next, I sewed the edge of the hem to the pant leg using a blind stitch. To do this, you need to insert the needle exactly into the stitch from the overlocker (you can even get into the stitches themselves) and grab one or two threads of the trouser leg. Then bring the needle back to the overlock stitch. The distance between punctures should not be more than 0.5 -1 cm. Thus, we hem the trousers along the entire length.



Here's what I got. All that remains is to iron them out. If you are dealing with trousers that have creases, then first you need to iron the places where they are located.


Turning the pants right side out, I ironed the seam allowance inside the leg. It is not advisable to do this from the face, as the overlock may be printed. Steam the arrows from the front side using a cloth.



That's all. This is where the whole process ends.

Now you know how to properly hem trousers by hand, and you are sure that, if necessary, you can easily cope with this operation.

Very often we are faced with the need to hem our trousers. Classic situation: you bought pants, they fit well, but the length is not right. For children during the period of their intensive growth, parents try to buy pants with a reserve in order to at least slightly delay the need for another purchase of clothes for their grown child. There are countless situations, but there is only one way out, or rather two: either you take the trousers to the tailor, or you try to solve the problem yourself. Having learned to do this once, you will be spared the need to use the services of a studio every time. So, let's figure out how to hem trousers correctly?

Fitting

To begin with, of course, we need to determine the length of the trousers we need, how much to cut so that we don’t end up with breeches instead of trousers. Most the best option, is to put them on the future owner, it would be nice also with shoes for greater clarity.

When trying on, keep the following points in mind:

  • If the trousers are of a classic cut, then the back panel of the trouser leg should be below the middle of the heel of the shoes.
  • For jeans, you need to leave the leg length extending slightly beyond the heel.
  • For women's flared trousers, the leg should reach the middle of the heel.
  • Tight trousers should be ankle-length.

If it is not possible to try on the pants directly on the owner, then you can take other pants of this person and make a mark on them. The mark can be made with soap, chalk, or something else, for example, pinned with pins.

Important! Having measured the desired length, you need to leave a few centimeters for allowances:

  • for men's trousers leave 4 cm;
  • female - 3 cm;
  • on children's ones you can leave 5-6 cm.

There are several reasons for this:

  • You definitely need a reserve, in case your pants shrink a little after washing.
  • A small hem gives a visible seal.

Preparation of trouser legs:

  1. Cut the pant legs as equally as possible. It is best to fasten the legs with pins, match the side and inside seams and cut two legs at once with scissors.
  2. It is best to finish the cut areas with an overlocker, zigzag stitch, or simply sew the edges with a loop stitch.

Important! This is done so that the threads do not fray and the edge is neat.

We hem the trousers by hand

There are a lot of ways to properly hem men's trousers; every craftswoman can choose an option that is convenient for her. Here's an easy one:

  1. You can use a special adhesive tape at the fold, but it must be duplicated with a hidden seam, since after the first wash the glue will come off and the tape will fall off. It is used rather for fixation, so that it is convenient to process the seam.
  2. The pant leg, turned inside out, is folded 3-4 cm, the fold is smoothed through gauze, then adhesive tape is laid along the edge and ironed.
  3. Then the folded part is sewn with a hidden seam. The product is turned inside out and the arrows are ironed with a steam iron or through gauze.

Hemming trousers using a sewing machine

Many people use trouser tape, which holds the fabric where it folds. This type of tape is only sewn onto men's trousers. How to hem trousers using a sewing machine? It would seem that there is nothing complicated here, I took the tape and stitched it. But there are some tricks here:

  • There is no need to tuck the edge of the tape at the junction, otherwise the joining seam will be very rough. Maybe on thick trousers this will not be very noticeable, but on light fabrics the hem will stand out like a stick. It is better to do this: singe the cut section of the trouser tape, singe it and overlap it.

Important! The tape for trousers is usually synthetic, so it melts well.

  • When adjusting the ribbon, try to accurately align its edge with the hem line. The top line needs to be sewn exactly 0.1 m from the edge of the tape, so that the tape peeks out a little in the finished product. This is done in order to protect the trousers from rubbing along the hem seam.
  • The color of the ribbon is best matched to the color of the pants.
  • When adjusting the tape, try not to pull it too tightly and make sure that neither the fabric nor the tape sits under the presser foot.

Important! It is advisable to pull both the fabric and the ribbon at the same time, just do not pull too hard, otherwise your needle may break.

  • Buy trouser tape with a tight weave. It is a little more expensive, but over time, “shaggy” areas will not appear on it.

Important! You can hem your trousers using a machine using a blind seam. To do this you will need a special blind stitch foot.

Hemming jeans

There shouldn't be any difficulties with jeans; hemming them is very easy. In this case, the trouser leg is folded in two turns to a width of 1.5 cm and sewn with a straight stitch. In order for it to look the same as the factory one, you just need to select the threads by color.

Important! It is not necessary to take a special thread for jeans; not every machine can work with it; many do it simply: they make a double seam with a regular thread of a suitable color.

It also happens that the pants have an original design and it is necessary to preserve the factory decorative seam in order to preserve the model features of the product. Then you need to consider the option of how to properly hem your trousers while maintaining the factory edge. For this:

  1. First you need to determine the desired length of the trousers and put a mark.
  2. Then they measure the factory edge and move the mark to the required distance.
  3. Next, the pant leg is folded so as to align the offset line and the base of the factory edge, then a stitch is made on a sewing machine.
  4. The resulting excess part is cut off and stitched with a zigzag or overlock.
  5. The lapel is attached to the trouser leg using adhesive tape and an iron.
  6. Finally, a stitch is laid along the very edge of the combination of the trouser leg and the factory design of the bottom of the trousers.

Now we have completely figured out this seemingly simple question of how to hem trousers with your own hands. Do everything as written above, and then the problem of correctly fitting things to your height without paying for the services of craftsmen from the studio will cease to exist for you.