Hi all. In the midst of a hot summer, you suddenly realize that you are missing a couple more summer dresses. Let's try to sew a dress without a pattern quickly.

Exclusive outfit

If you decide to sew a dress with your own hands, then you can give free rein to your imagination by coming up with something that you won’t see on any girl.

Let's get down to business!

First, let's sew a straight dress. You will need two lengths of knitted fabric. If the material does not crumble, the sleeves and neckline can be left untreated and the bottom folded.

This model can be any length.

Party outfit

You have been invited to a party, but there is no new outfit. In 2 hours you will update your wardrobe by sewing a wonderful evening dress from stretch fabric without using a pattern.

The little black dress has always been considered the most elegant outfit.

1. Take 1 meter of material, fold it in half.
2. Layer a tank top with wide shoulders over it.
3. Outline the top, then set the desired length from the waist line.
4. Then cut out and sew the side and shoulder seams.
5. If the neck is small, increase its size.
6. Next we sew the sleeves. We cut out 2 rectangles, making a width that corresponds to the circumference of the arm at the widest point, and the length can be taken as desired - 45-60 cm.
7. Attach the rectangles to the shelves and cut along the armhole line.
8. Now the resulting sleeves need to be sewn on.

Following the description, you will get a great outfit for the evening.

Festive dress in 15 minutes

1. Take stretch material: length - 160 cm, width - 140 cm.
2. Fold in 4 layers. Measure slightly below your waist. Round the edges.
3. From the middle, measure a quarter of the measurement, draw a line up 60 cm.
4. Sew very evenly.
5. Cut out the neckline, 40 cm long and 4 cm deep. The outfit is ready!

Let's go on vacation!

If you are planning to spend a vacation at sea, then a beach dress is an indispensable attribute of a summer holiday.

Let's try to sew some beach outfits.

Drawstring dress without pattern

Draw a rectangle, the width and length of which will depend on the desired dimensions. The shelf and back of the product will be the same. The shelf can be decorated with embroidery or beads so as not to be confused.

With drapery

We take thin flowing material. It can be satin, silk, muslin, crepe. The product will only have one seam on the back.

• The length of the rectangle is 2-3 meters (it all depends on your size and the “density” of the folds).
• In the center of the rectangle we make an incision to the depth of the neckline: 5-10 cm.
• We design the upper edge as a drawstring into which we insert 2 ribbons. At the back, the ends of the ribbons are sewn into the seam on the back, and at the front we take them out of the drawstring into the slit and, when putting the product on, tie it at the back of the neck.
• We tie it under the chest with a ribbon.

Light sundress

Take the T-shirt, attach it to the fabric and do everything as shown in the picture.

Floor length dress

The long dress is sewn very quickly, but it looks charming!

How to sew:

1. You will need fabric: two lengths from shoulders to waist with a width of 140 cm, plus 10 cm for hem. Length from waist to floor for thin ladies.
2. For the top, take a rectangle and fold it in half. You will get a length from the shoulders to the waist plus 10 cm, cut it.
3. From the edge, set aside for the width of the sleeve - 25 cm.
4. From the bottom up we set aside 45 cm. Between the sleeves we measure the width of the hips plus 10-12 cm for freedom of movement.
5. Cut it. You will get sleeves and a front at once.
6. We sew the side seams and where we made the cut for the sleeves.
7. We turn the top 10 cm. We sew for the elastic, leaving a small frill. Insert the rubber band.
8. We also turn up the sleeves by 10 cm. We sew for an elastic band. Insert the rubber band.
9. We sew the rectangle for the skirt and make pleats or gathers at the waistband.
10. Sew on the top and skirt.
11. We decorate the waist with a wide belt.

This pattern will make a great summer blouse.

How to quickly sew a home dress without a pattern

A house dress should be comfortable and beautiful.

1. Fold the fabric in half and attach the T-shirt.
2. Circle the top of the T-shirt to the waist, then gradually begin to increase it. Don't forget to leave seam allowances.
3. Cut out and sew the shoulder and side seams.
4. Fold, grind the neckline and sleeves.
5. For convenience, you can sew on pockets.

No one will have such a thing

Let's take measurements for sewing a tunic:

1. Tunic length.
2. Product width (hip circumference + 5-10 cm for freedom).
3. Sleeve width (arm circumference + 5-7cm).

Transfer your measurements onto the fabric, not forgetting the seam allowances.

Rectangle tunic for large sizes. This product will hide figure flaws.

1. Choose a light, flowy fabric.
2. Fold in 4 times to cut out the neckline and put on.
3. You can sew a ribbon to the bottom and tie it at the sides.

Another option for a light tunic, which is also suitable for sewing home clothes if you increase the length. Transfer the measurements to the material and start sewing!

Both the tunic and the dress! Just a few stitches and you have a beautiful piece in your wardrobe. Even a novice dressmaker can sew using this pattern.

If you decorate the tunic with beautiful lace, you will get a cute little dress.

Knitwear can make a beautiful outfit with a peplum.

1. We fold the material lengthwise, put a T-shirt on it, and trace it.
2. 2 parts are cut out. If the peplum will be sewn in, the waistline should be cut.
3. A rectangle is cut out of knitwear, the length of which is equal to the waist circumference and increased by 2 times.
4. The length of the peplum is from 10 to 20 cm. Lightly smear it on a machine with a weak thread tension.
5. Fold the top and bottom parts, insert a peplum between them, and grind them down.
6. We process the neckline, sleeves, and bend them.

Finally, I would like to appeal to novice dressmakers: sew an outfit for a test without a pattern from a simple material, and then feel free to sew from whatever you want.

The textile industry today offers us a wide range of different fabrics. Much of this diversity comes from stretch fabrics. To dare to sew a dress from knitwear or other elastic fabric yourself, you need not only desire, but also some additional knowledge. Let's expand our knowledge in clothing design by mastering another technique that can be attributed to the European cutting system.

About allowances for loose fitting.

Each elastic fabric stretches differently. One stretches more in width, the other in length, and the third can stretch both along the weft and the warp. Moreover, the degree of stretchability of the fabric also varies widely. There is no general classification of fabrics and corresponding increases today (as far as I know), therefore this issue You yourself must navigate and decide on the amount of the increase. Also, when choosing extensions, you should take into account the silhouette of the designed clothing. When designing close-fitting clothing silhouettes from elastic fabrics, increases are usually taken with negative values.

We will look at designs of different silhouettes and use different increases accordingly.

In today's example we will create a dress pattern adjacent silhouette onto a conventional figure made of elastic fabric, which stretches along the weft, i.e. in width, and along the base, i.e. in length.

I draw your attention to the fact that in this technique, the methods of taking measurements, the names of measurement points and their positions may differ from those familiar or previously known to you. Namely: measurements back length to waist 2, back armhole height, shoulder width etc.

I will not tire of repeating what is right, i.e. Diligently and accurately, the measurements taken are the key to a high-quality result. Follow all the measuring instructions and recommendations and you will receive a pattern that will allow you to sew a dress with minimal adjustment.

Here, as in previous lessons, we use step by step instructions construction of drawings.

Taking measurements

To create a pattern drawing, you will need the following measurements:

We take and record in the table the measurements from our conditional figure, and you take the measurements taken from your figure or from the figure of the person for whom you are going to sew a dress.

Building the back

In the upper left corner we draw a right angle, the vertex is designated by point A.

From point A we lay down:

1. Measure Rear armhole heights (Vprz) plus an increase. The increase has a negative value (- 1 cm) and we set point G.

AG = (23 + (- 1) = 22cm.

You substitute your values.

2. Measure Back length to waist 2(Dst2) plus an increase. The increase has a negative value (- 1 cm) and we set the T point.

AT = (42 + (– 1) = 41 cm.

3. Measure Product lengths (Di)(in our example, this measurement is 100 cm, and you set aside your measurement) and put point H.

From point T downwards we set aside the height of the hip line, it is equal to 18 -20 cm for all sizes and put point B.

In our example, distance TB = 18cm.

Through the obtained points to the right we draw straight lines of arbitrary length, but not less than the half-circumference of the hips plus a few centimeters. We get chest, waist, hip and bottom lines.

Back neck

From point A down, set the back neck depth to 2.5 cm (for all sizes) and place point A1.

AA1 = 2.5 cm.

From point A to the right, set aside 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement plus 0.5 - 0.7 cm and place point A2.

AA2 = 19: 3 + 0.7 = 7 cm.

You do your calculations.

Making a neckline. We connect points A1 and A2 with a smooth curve, observing the main rule: The line of the back neckline should approach the line of the middle of the back at a right angle.

Shoulder line

From point A to the right we put the measurement Shoulder width (W) plus an increase. In our example, the increase has a negative value (- 0.5 cm) and we put point A3.

AA3 = 19 – 0.5 = 18.5 cm

From A3 we lower the perpendicular to the chest line and place point G1.

From point T as from a center with a radius equal to the measure Oblique shoulder height (Bpc) draw an arc, and at the intersection with the vertical A3G1 we place point P.

We connect points A2 and P with a straight line, we get shoulder line.

Back opening

From point G to the right we plot the value obtained as a result of the following calculation:

measure Half chest circumference (Сг) plus 1/2 of the increase along the chest line (the increase has a negative value) and divide all this by 2.

The resulting point is denoted by the letter G2.

GG2 = (Cr2 + 1/2Pr) : 2 = (45 – 1) : 2 = 22cm.

In our example, the increase is minus 2, which means 1/2 of the increase is minus one centimeter.

To draw the armhole line, we will determine the location of a few more points.

From G1 upward we set aside 0.15 of the segment G1P and place point P1.

G1P1 = 0.15 x 18 = 2.7 cm.

And once again, from point G1 we set aside 0.4 segments G1P upward and place point P2.

G1P2 = 0.4 x 18 = 7.2 cm.

From point P2 to the left we set aside 1.2 cm (for all sizes) and place point P3.

P2P3 = 1.2 cm.

We draw up the armhole line by connecting points P, P3, P1 and G2 with a smooth curve.

Lateral line of the back.

From point T to the right, we put aside the measurement of the half-circumference of the waist plus an increase of 1 cm and divide all this by 2.

But here the increase has a plus sign. The waist area is the most variable measurement. You can see this for yourself. Take your waist measurement in the morning after sleep and in the evening before bed, or before and after lunch, or before and after training, and you will see that this is indeed the case. The difference will be different for each person, depending on age, appetite and lifestyle, but you will definitely find it, and more so at the waist than anywhere else. Therefore, taking into account the properties of the elastic fabric we have chosen, for the waist we give an increase with a plus sign.

We return to our calculations and from point T to the right, set aside the measurement of half waist circumference plus 1 cm increase divided by 2 and set point T1.

TT1 = (35+1):2=18cm

From point B to the right we put aside the measurement of the half-circumference of the hips minus 1 cm of increase divided by all this by 2 and put point B1.

BB1 = (48-1):2 = 23.5 cm.

It should be noted here that the increase along the hip line can be either a plus or a minus sign, and can also be equal to zero. You just need to take into account the following: the hip line is directly dependent on the bulges of the abdomen and buttocks, and excessive tightness in this area does not always look aesthetically pleasing. Although, if you think differently, or want to demonstrate to those around you just this part of your ideal figure, you can change the value of the increase as you see fit, because YOU are the designer for your dress.

From point B1, draw a perpendicular downward until it intersects with the bottom line and place point H1.

We draw up a side line by connecting points G2, T1 with a straight or slightly concave line, the section from point T1 to B1 with a smooth curve, and section B1H1 with a straight line.

A drawing of a back pattern for a knitted dress has been created.

If the deflection in the waist area is more than 5 cm, then it is better to leave the dress relatively loose in this place, and achieve the desired degree of fit using darts or other design techniques, such as reliefs, etc.

Building a shelf

We continue the construction on the same sheet of paper on the continuation of the horizontal lines.

WITH right side sheet draw a vertical line perpendicular to the horizontal lines.

We denote the points of intersection with line AA3 by the letter B,

• with the chest line GG2 - the letter G3,
• with waist line TT1 – letter T2,
• with the line of the hips BB1 - the letter B2,
• with the bottom line HH1 - the letter H2.

Shelf neck line

From point B to the left we set aside the width of the neckline, it should correspond to the width of the back neckline: 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement plus 0.5 - 0.7 cm and set point B1.

BB1 = 19: 3 + 0.7 = 7cm

From point B downwards we set the depth of the front neckline to 7cm (for all sizes) and put point B2.

From the obtained points we draw mutually intersecting straight lines.

We draw up the neck line. We connect points B1 and B2 with a smooth curve, observing the main rule: The neck line should approach the mid-front line at a right angle.

Shoulder line.

From point B to the left we set aside a distance equal to segment AA3 from the drawing of the back and put point P4, from which we lower the perpendicular down to the intersection with the chest line and put point G4.

On this segment from point P4 downwards we set aside a distance equal to segment A3P from the drawing of the back and place point P5.

We connect points B1 and P5 with a straight line, getting shelf shoulder line.

Shelf opening

From point G3 to the left we put aside the value obtained as a result of the following calculation (same as in the drawing of the back): measure Half chest circumference (Сг) plus 1/2 of the increase (the increase has a negative value) and all this divided by 2. The increase to the measurement of the second half-circumference of the chest Cr2 is equal to minus 2 cm, of which - 1 cm for the back and also for the shelf - 1 cm. The resulting point is denoted by the letter G5.

Г3Г5 = (Сг2 + (- 1cm)) : 2 = (45 – 1) : 2 = 22cm.

Don't forget to insert your values ​​into all formulas.

From point G4 upward we set aside 0.07 of the segment G4P5 and place point P6.

G4P6 = 0.07x18cm=1.3cm

And once again from point G4 upward we put aside 0.35 of the segment G4P5 and put point P7.

G4P7 = 0.35x18cm=6.3cm.

From the resulting point P7 to the right along the perpendicular we set aside 2 cm (for all sizes) and place point P8.

We make out shelf armhole line connecting points P5, P8, P6 and G5 with a smooth curve.

Lateral shelf line

The side line on the shelf is built in the same way as on the back.

From point T2 to the left, set aside the measurement of half waist circumference plus 1 cm increase divided by 2 and place point T3.

Т2Т3 = (35+1):2=18cm

From point B2 to the left we put aside the measurement of the half-circumference of the hips minus 1 cm of increase divided by all this by 2 and put point B3

B2B3 = (48-1):2=23.5cm

From point B3, draw a perpendicular downward until it intersects with the bottom line.

We draw a side line by connecting points G5, T3 with a straight or slightly concave line, the section from point T3 to B3 with a smooth curve, and section B3H3 with a straight line.

Let me remind you that if the deflection in the waist area is more than 5 cm, in this case it is better to leave the sides of the dress relatively loose, and achieve the desired degree of fit using darts or other design techniques, such as reliefs, etc.

And the final stage will be the correction of the bottom line of the shelf (if necessary). From point H2 down, continuing the line of the middle front, we set aside 1 or more centimeters, depending on the degree of elasticity of the fabric.

And with a smooth line we draw the line of the bottom of the shelf.

The construction of the base of the dress from elastic fabric is completed. All that remains is to build sleeve. This will be in the next article.

Always remember that any instruction is just a diagram and you don’t need to get caught up in the details. It's like a plan, like a map indicating the direction of movement. But in our business, it is not so important which road we take as where we arrive when we complete our route.

There are other methods for constructing structures from elastic fabrics. We will also master them over time.

I wish you all inexhaustible inspiration and unshakable faith in your capabilities.

Sincerely, Valentina Nivina.

Knitted dresses- a real find for dressmakers. Firstly, they are very easy to sew, since they do not require darts, and the fabric itself hugs the figure. Secondly, the details of the dresses can be immediately sewn with an overlocker, while processing the seams at the same time. Thirdly, dresses made from elastic panvelvet, like our model, look simply stunning!

Before you start modeling a knitted dress, you need to build it according to your own measurements.

IMPORTANT! Since knitted pan velvet has a lot of stretch, there is no need to make allowances for a loose fit when creating the pattern for the base of the dress.

Knitted dress pattern

Rice. 1. Modeling the front of the dress

Rice. 2. Modeling the bodice

Rice. 3. Pattern of the back

When cutting the dress, you can give minimal seam allowances - 5 mm and 4 cm at the bottom of the dress.

How to cut and sew knitted dresses

Such dresses can be sewn from different knitwear - cotton based, bi-elastic, openwork, with terry outer side, knitted, etc. Dresses are quite easy to sew and wear well, and they do not require special care.

Knitted fabrics are bi-elastic (stretchable along and across) and elastic (stretchable only along or only across). If the fabric only stretches in one direction, the dress pieces should be cut so that they stretch crosswise.

In order to avoid difficulties with sewing knitted fabrics, you must follow some rules for working with it:

1) Since loops on knitted fabrics can “creep” when trying on dresses, the details of the dress should be immediately processed along the edges with an overlock seam or a regular zigzag seam, setting the stitch length to 3-4 mm, width to 2 mm.

2) Knitted dresses should also be sewn using an overlock seam, a narrow zigzag seam or a regular seam, using special long-fiber polyester threads.

3) When sewing machine seams on knitted dresses, be sure to replace the needle in sewing machine on a special needle for knitwear. This needle has a rounded tip that does not pierce the fabric, but gently pushes the threads apart.

4) In order to maintain the shape of the neckline and armholes without stretching, machine stitch along the edge of the allowances with a stitch length of 2.5 - 3 mm. You can also use a strip of adhesive interfacing cut on the bias - it must be ironed to the allowances.

5) To prevent the shoulder seams of the dress from stretching, when sewing them, cotton braid is tacked into the seam.

6) The bottom of the dresses is sewn with an elastic double seam. The seam is made with a double needle, using three threads - two upper, one lower. On the front side there are two parallel lines at a distance of 4-5 mm, on the bottom - a zigzag line.

You can hem knitted dresses along the bottom manually using a “velvet seam”; the top edge of the hem is tucked in by 0.5 cm. These tips are also relevant when sewing any other knitwear items.

You will need

• - knitted fabric;
• - pattern;
• - tracing paper;
• - sewing machine with a needle for knitwear;
• - threads;
• - needle;
• - chalk or pencil;
• - scissors.

Instructions

When choosing a pattern for a knitted dress, consider the nuances of your figure. Let the fabric beautifully hug the parts of your body that you are proud of. If your tummy is full, choose a model that has a piece of fabric sewn to the waist in the shape of a small wavy skirt. This trick will help hide extra inches on your hips. The fullness of the arms in the shoulder area will be visually reduced by a loose-fitting sleeve. Tight in in this case won't do.

Take your measurements. Usually three are required - chest, waist, hips. Take a pattern in your size. When choosing a model, consider the nuances of the figure. Take tracing paper and attach it to the pattern. To prevent it from moving, secure the edges with books or similar weighty objects. Redraw the details onto tracing paper with a pencil or pen. Don't forget to mark the location of the grooves and zippers, if there are any.

Cut according to the share. To do this, place two edges of the fabric one on top of the other with the right sides facing inward. Lay out the pattern pieces. If they are one-piece, then align the fold of the fabric with the middle part of the paper piece. Attach with pins. On a dark canvas, outline the pattern using a tailor's chalk, on a light canvas - with a simple pencil.

Cut out the pieces along the drawn lines, leaving 0.7 mm allowance for the side seams and 4 cm for the hem.

Start sewing a knitted dress with darts. Take a thread and a needle. Using a basting stitch, join the two halves of one dart on the wrong side of the arms. Only then sew it on a sewing machine.

If the dress is cut at the waist, sew the side seams of the front and back, then the sides of the front and back of the skirt panels. After this, sew the top and bottom of the product. If the front and back pieces are one-piece, then stitch them along the sides.

Apply cotton tape to the shoulder seams and stitch them together. She won't let them stretch. After this, sew the seams of the shoulders.

Process the neck. To prevent it from stretching, attach adhesive tape to the inside. It is also used when processing armholes if the model is sleeveless. For a dress with this detail, first sew the sleeve in the middle, making an underarm seam. Apply adhesive tape not only to the armhole, but also to the top of the sleeve, and then sew it in.

Hem the bottom of the product on your hands with an invisible seam or on a machine using a double needle - elastic. The hand-sewn dress is ready. You can wear it and shine in a designer item created in one copy.

Knitwear is a comfortable, soft and versatile material from which you can sew not only underwear and tracksuits, but also dresses - both casual and elegant, in which you can safely come to official events and social parties. A knit dress is easy to make yourself and can become the most comfortable item in your wardrobe. There are many models of dresses that can be made from knitwear, and you should choose the most suitable model, and then the appropriate fabric, in accordance with your figure and type of appearance.

Instructions

In the technology of sewing knitwear, unlike sewing other fabrics, there are a number of subtleties that should be taken into account. You will need not only a sewing machine, but also an overlocker, as well as scissors, a needle, tailor's chalk, an iron and ironing board, and other tools that help in cutting and sewing.

It is best if your machine is capable of sewing not only ordinary, but also knitted seams; otherwise, you will have to sew the product on an overlocker, which itself creates an elastic stitch.

You can safely sew a dress on an ordinary sewing machine if the machine’s functions include a zigzag seam.

Having selected a knitwear suitable for the dress, try to sew it in advance, selecting different thread tension modes in the machine, and choosing a seam. The stitching should be elastic - otherwise the threads will break when trying

This article is dedicated to all those who really want to learn how to sew original and beautiful dresses, but for various reasons has not yet achieved professionalism in this art. Even for completely beginner craftswomen, there are many ways to replenish your wardrobe with interesting things, spending a minimum of money, time and effort. In this article we will look at several options for how to sew a dress without a pattern yourself. Such dresses look fashionable and stylish and are in no way inferior to models with a complex cut.

Dress without a pattern No. 1 - Bright print

The first dress we offer is straight dress made of jersey with a bright print. The beauty of a thing consists of two components - silhouette and fabric. If the silhouette is simple (as in this model), then the main role should be played by the material from which the dress is made. We advise you to choose cotton-based knitwear with a bright contrasting pattern; it is better to opt for options with large geometric irregular prints (but not with horizontal stripes!) or with large flowers. A bright pattern, among other things, will distract attention from possible minor flaws in execution.

Let's decide on the amount of fabric for the dress - it usually depends on how long the finished product is supposed to be, plus extra for sleeves and other details. With an average height of up to 170 cm, regardless of size, for a knee-length dress you will need a cut length of approximately 130 cm and 40 cm for three-quarter sleeves. Before work, the fabric needs to be prepared - wet and ironed so that it shrinks in advance, and not in the finished product.

1. This dress will be made without a pattern, but any T-shirt that you usually wear will serve as a template for the top. Having folded a piece of fabric in half lengthwise, attach the T-shirt to the fabric and trace it along the contour.
2. Mark the desired hem length for the dress. Here, take into account the volume of the hips - if the hips are narrow, the dress can be absolutely straight; the shape of the dress for overweight ladies will be more like a trapezoid. Cut the pieces in, leaving 1.5 cm for seam allowances, and make a cutout of the desired depth and shape.
3. Using the shape of the neckline, cut out the facing for the front and back of the dress.
4. Pin the facing to the neckline and stitch.
5. Baste and stitch the shoulders.
6. The dress can be left sleeveless - then the armhole can be processed with a facing in the same way as the neckline was processed. Or you can cut out a sleeve using a T-shirt sleeve as a template.

All that remains is to make the side seams and finish the hem, and the dress is ready:

Dress without a pattern No. 2 - Simple loose-fitting dress

This model is very similar to the previous one; you can also cut it using a T-shirt that fits well according to the principle described above.

Dress without a pattern No. 3 - Casual T-shirt dress

To sew such a simple dress, you will need two T-shirts of the same color or contrasting colors and a couple of hours of free time. For this purpose, it is better to choose T-shirts not made of pure cotton, but with an admixture of synthetic fibers of at least 15%.

• On one T-shirt, mark where the belt will be, and on the other, mark the chest line. Cut the T-shirts along the marked lines.
• The top of the T-shirt will be the top of the dress, and the second T-shirt will be the hem. Parts of T-shirts are sewn on the wrong side with an indentation of 5 cm, then turned inside out, and along front side Along the waistband, another line is made below the first one by 3 cm - this creates a drawstring into which the belt will later be inserted. Using scissors, you need to make a hole in it in the center of the front of the dress.
• The belt is made from fabric left over from cut T-shirts - you need to cut a strip 2 cm wide, stitch it along the length and insert it into the drawstring.
• All that remains is to design the neckline of the dress - you can make a V-shaped neckline, or a deep round one and complement it with a one-shoulder strap, which can be made from the remaining fabric. The dress can be decorated with metal fittings and it is ready.

Dress without a pattern No. 4 - Holiday dress made from scarves

To make such a dress, you will need 3 scarves of suitable size - if you attach one corner of the scarf to your chest, its opposite corner will end in the same place as the hem of the future dress.

Scheme for making a dress from scarves:

For the front part, 2 scarves are folded together back to back and distances of 17 cm and 27 cm are measured from the corners, as in the photo:

Then, along the line connecting the marked points, the scarves are sewn.

All that remains is to sew on the back. To do this, a distance of 17 cm is measured from the corners of the third scarf and the scarf is basted with the finished front. All that remains is to stitch the seams and straps - you can use ribbon or braid of a suitable width as straps. It is best to adjust the length of the straps on yourself immediately before sewing them on. The ribbon can also be sewn under the bodice and tied at the back with a beautiful bow.

This dress will look great with a belt:

As you can see, adding a new dress to your wardrobe at minimal cost is not at all difficult. We also offer several videos on sewing simple dresses without patterns that will give you new ideas and help in their implementation.

A selection of video master classes on sewing dresses without patterns