Varanasi - the city of the dead (Warning, there are shocking photos, viewing is not recommended for sensitive people)

ATTENTION! There are shocking photos. Viewing is not recommended for the impressionable!

Our planet is full of wonderful surprises from nature and ancient civilizations, full of beauty and sights, and you can also find quite unusual, strange, dark traditions and rituals. Although it should be noted that for us they are strange and scary, but for some it is their everyday life, this is their culture.

Each of the billion Hindus dreams of dying in Varanasi or burning their body here. The open air crematorium smokes 365 days a year and 24 hours a day. Hundreds of bodies from all over India and abroad come here every day, fly in and burn. The Hindus came up with a good religion - that when we give up, we don’t die for good. Vladimir Vysotsky instilled in us this basic knowledge about Hinduism to the chords of his guitar. He sang and enlightened: “If you live correctly, you will be happy in your next life, and if you are stupid like a tree, you will be born a baobab.”

Varanasi is an important religious site in the world of Hinduism, a center of pilgrimage for Hindus from all over the world, as ancient as Babylon or Thebes. Here, more strongly than anywhere else, the contradictions of human existence are manifested: life and death, hope and suffering, youth and old age, joy and despair, splendor and poverty. This is a city in which there is so much death and life at the same time. This is a city in which eternity and existence coexist. This the best place to understand what India is, its religion and culture.

In the religious geography of Hinduism, Varanasi is the center of the universe. One of the most sacred cities for Hindus serves as a kind of border between physical reality and the eternity of life. Here the gods descend to earth, and a mere mortal achieves bliss. This Holy place a place to live and a blessed place to die. This is the best place to achieve bliss.

Varanasi's prominence in Hindu mythology is unparalleled. According to legend, the city was founded by the Hindu God Shiva several thousand years ago, making it one of the most important pilgrimage sites in the country. It is one of the seven holy cities of the Hindus. In many ways, he embodies the best and worst aspects of India, sometimes horrifying to foreign tourists. However, the scenes of pilgrims saying prayers in the rays of the rising sun by the Ganges River, with Hindu temples in the background, is one of the most impressive sights in the world. When traveling through northern India, try not to miss this ancient city.

Founded a thousand years before Christ, Varanasi is one of the oldest cities in the world. It was called by many epithets - “city of temples”, “sacred city of India”, “religious capital of India”, “city of lights”, “city of enlightenment” - and only very recently its official name, first mentioned in the Jataka - an ancient narrative, was restored Hindu literature. But many still continue to use the English name Benares, and pilgrims call it nothing more than Kashi - this is what the city was called for three thousand years.

The Hindu truly believes in the wanderings of the soul, which after death moves into other living beings. And he treats death in a kind of special way, but at the same time, in an ordinary way. For a Hindu, death is just one of the stages of samsara, or endless game births and deaths. And an adherent of Hinduism also dreams of one day not being born. He strives for moksha, the completion of that very cycle of rebirth, along with which he strives for liberation and deliverance from the hardships of the material world. Moksha is practically synonymous with Buddhist nirvana: the highest state, the goal of human aspirations, a certain absolute.

For thousands of years, Varanasi has been a center of philosophy and theosophy, medicine and education. English writer Mark Twain, shocked by his visit to Varanasi, wrote: “Benares (old name) older than history, older than tradition, even older than legends and looks twice as old as all of them put together." Many famous and most revered Indian philosophers, poets, writers and musicians lived in Varanasi. In this glorious city lived the classic of Hindi literature Kabir, singer and writer Tulsidas wrote the epic poem Ramacharithamanas, which became one of the most famous works of Hindi literature, and the Buddha delivered his first sermon at Sarnath, just a few kilometers from Varanasi.Sung by myths and legends, sanctified by religion, he has always attracted a large number of pilgrims and believers since time immemorial.

Varanasi is located between Delhi and Kolkata on the western bank of the Ganges. Every Indian child who has listened to the stories of his parents knows that the Ganga is the largest and holiest of all the rivers in India. The main reason to visit Varanasi is, of course, to see the Ganges River. The significance of the river for Hindus is beyond description. She is one of the 20 largest rivers peace. The Ganges River basin is the most densely populated in the world, with a population of over 400 million people. The Ganga is an important source of irrigation and communication for millions of Indians living along the riverbed. Since time immemorial she has been worshiped as the goddess Ganga. Historically, a number of capitals of former principalities were located on its banks.

The largest ghat in the city used for cremation is Manikarnika. About 200 bodies a day are cremated here, and funeral pyres burn day and night. Families bring here the dead who died of natural causes.

Hinduism has given those who practice it a method of guaranteed attainment of moksha. It is enough to die in sacred Varanasi (formerly Benares, Kashi - author's note) - and samsara ends. Moksha is coming. It is important to note that being cunning and throwing yourself under a car in this city is not an option. So you definitely won’t see moksha. Even if an Indian did not die in Varanasi, this city is still capable of influencing his further existence. If you cremate the body on the shore sacred river Ganges is in this city, then the karma for the next life is cleared. So Hindus from all over India and the world come here to die and burn.

The Ganges embankment is the most party place in Varanasi. Here are hermit sadhus smeared in soot: the real ones pray and meditate, the tourist ones pester with offers to take pictures for money. Disdainful European women are trying not to step into sewage, fat American women are filming themselves in front of everything, frightened Japanese are walking around with gauze bandages on their faces - they are saving themselves from infections. It's full of Rastafarians with dreadlocks, freaks, enlightened and pseudo-enlightened people, schizos and beggars, massage therapists and hashish dealers, artists and other people of every stripe in the world. The diversity of the crowd is incomparable.

Despite the abundance of visitors, it’s difficult to call this city a tourist city. Varanasi still has its own life, and tourists have absolutely nothing to do with it. Here is a corpse floating along the Ganges, a man nearby is washing and beating clothes on a stone, someone is brushing his teeth. Almost everyone swims with happy faces. “The Ganges is our mother. You tourists don’t understand. You laugh that we drink this water. But for us it is sacred,” the Hindus explain. And indeed, they drink and don’t get sick. Native microflora. Although the Discovery Channel, when making a film about Varanasi, submitted samples of this water for research. The laboratory's verdict is terrible - one drop will, if not kill a horse, then certainly cripple it. There is more nastiness in that drop than on the list of potentially dangerous infections in the country. But you forget about all this when you find yourself on the shore of burning people.

This is Manikarnika Ghat - the main crematorium of the city. There are bodies, bodies and more bodies everywhere. There are dozens of them waiting for their turn at the fire. Burning smoke, crackling firewood, a chorus of worried voices and the phrase endlessly ringing in the air: “Ram nam sagage.” A hand stuck out of the fire, a leg appeared, and now a head rolled. The workers, sweating and squinting from the heat, use bamboo sticks to turn over body parts emerging from the fire. I felt like I was on the set of some kind of horror movie. Reality disappears from under your feet.

Business on corpses

From the balconies of the “trump” hotels you can see the Ganges, and with it the smoke of funeral pyres. I didn’t want to smell this strange smell all day long, so I moved to a less fashionable area, and away from the corpses. “Friend, good camera! Do you want to film how people are burned?” Rarely, but offers from pesters are heard. There is not a single law prohibiting the filming of funeral rites. But at the same time, there is not a single chance to take advantage of the absence of a ban. Selling pseudo-film permits is a business for the caste that controls cremation. Five to ten dollars for one click of the shutter, and a double is the same price.

It's impossible to cheat. I had to watch how tourists, out of ignorance, even just pointed the camera towards the fire and came under the most severe pressure of the crowd. These were no longer trades, but racketeering. There are special rates for journalists. The approach to everyone is individual, but for a permit to work “in the zone” - up to 2000 euros, and for one photo card up to a hundred dollars. Street brokers always clarified my profession and only then started bidding. And who am I? Amateur photography student! Landscapes, flowers and butterflies. You say this - and the price is immediately divine, 200 bucks. But there is no guarantee that with a “filka certificate” they will not end up being sent to hell. I continue my search and soon find the main one. “B-i-i-g boss,” they call him on the embankment.

Name is Sures. With a big belly and a leather vest, he proudly walks between the fires - supervising the staff, the sale of wood, and the collection of proceeds. I also introduce myself to him as a novice amateur photographer. “Okay, you have 200 dollars, and rent for a week,” Sures was delighted, asked for 100 dollars in advance and showed a sample of the “permishin” - an A4 piece of paper with the inscription a la “I allow it. Boss.” I didn’t want to buy a piece of paper for two hundred greenbacks again. “To Varanasi City Hall,” I said to the tuk-tuk driver. The complex of two-story houses was very reminiscent of a Soviet-era sanatorium. People are fussing with papers and standing in lines.

And small officials of the city administration, like ours, are sluggish - they spend a long time fiddling with each leaf. I killed half a day, collected a collection of autographs from the big shots of Varanasi and went to the police headquarters. Law enforcement officers offered to wait for the boss and treated him to tea. Made from clay pots, as if from a Ukrainian souvenir shop. After drinking tea, the policeman smashes the ice cream on the floor. It turns out that plastic is expensive and not environmentally friendly. But there is a lot of clay in the Ganges and it is free. At a street eatery, such a glass along with tea even cost me 5 rupees. For an Indian it’s even cheaper. A few hours later, an audience was held with the city police chief. I decided to make the most of the meeting and asked him for a business card. "I only have it in Hindi!" - the man laughed. “I offer an exchange. You tell me in Hindi, I tell you in Ukrainian,” I come up with. Now I have in my hands a whole stack of permits and a trump card - the business card of the main man in uniform in Varanasi.

Last refuge

Visitors stare in fear at the fires from afar. Well-wishers approach them and supposedly unselfishly initiate them into the history of Indian funeral traditions. "It takes 400 kilograms of firewood to make a fire. One kilogram costs 400-500 rupees (1 US dollar - 50 Indian rupees - author's note). Help the family of the deceased, donate money for at least a couple of kilograms. People spend their entire lives collecting money for the last "bonfire" - the excursion ends as standard. It sounds convincing, foreigners take out their wallets. And, without suspecting it, they pay for half the fire. After all, the real price of wood is from 4 rupees per kilo. In the evening I come to Manikarnika. Literally a minute later a man comes running and demands to explain how I dare to expose my lens in a sacred place.

When he sees the documents, he respectfully folds his hands to his chest, bows his head and says: “Welcome! You are our friend. Ask for help.” This is 43-year-old Kashi Baba from the highest caste of Brahmins. He has been overseeing the cremation process here for 17 years. He says work gives him crazy energy. Hindus really love this place - in the evenings men sit on the steps and stare at the fires for hours. “We all dream of dying in Varanasi and having our bodies cremated here,” they say something like this. Kashi Baba and I also sit down next to each other. It turns out that bodies began to be burned in this very place 3,500 years ago. Since the fire of the god Shiva was not lit here. It burns even now, it is monitored around the clock, every ritual fire is set on fire from it. Today, between 200 and 400 bodies are reduced to ashes here every day. And not only from all over India. Burning in Varanasi is the last wish of many immigrant Hindus and even some foreigners. Recently, for example, an elderly American was cremated.

Contrary to tourist fables, cremation is not very expensive. To burn a body, it will take 300-400 kilograms of wood and up to four hours of time. A kilogram of firewood - from 4 rupees. The entire funeral ceremony can start from 3-4 thousand rupees, or 60-80 dollars. But there is no maximum bar. Richer people add sandalwood to the fire for scent, a kilogram of which reaches up to $160. When the Maharaja died in Varanasi, his son ordered a fire made entirely of sandalwood, and scattered emeralds and rubies around. All of them rightfully went to the workers of Manikarnika - people from the dom-raja caste.

These are the lowest class of people, the so-called untouchables. Their fate is unclean types of work, which includes burning corpses. Unlike other untouchables, the Dom-Raja caste has money, as even the element “raja” in the name hints at.

Every day these people clean the area, sift and wash through a sieve ash, coals and burnt soil. The task is to find the jewelry. Relatives do not have the right to remove them from the deceased. On the contrary, they inform the guys at the Raja's house that the deceased, say, gold chain, diamond ring and three gold teeth. The workers will find and sell all this. At night there is a glow from fires over the Ganges. The best way to view it is from the roof of the central building, Manikarnika Ghat. “If you fall, you’ll fall straight into the fire. It’s convenient,” Kashi argues, while I stand on the canopy and take a panorama. Inside this building there is emptiness, darkness and walls smoked for decades.

I'll be honest - it's creepy. A wizened granny sits right on the floor, in the corner on the second floor. This is Daya Mai. She doesn’t remember her exact age - she says about 103 years old. Daya spent the last 45 of them in this very corner, in a building near the cremation bank. Waiting for death. He wants to die in Varanasi. This woman from Bihar first came here when her husband died. And soon she lost her son and also decided to die. I was in Varanasi for ten days, almost every day of which I met Daya Mai. Leaning on a stick, in the morning she would go out into the street, walk between the stacks of firewood, approach the Ganges and return to her corner again. And so for the 46th year in a row.

To burn or not to burn? Manikarnika is not the only cremation place in the city. Here they burn those who die a natural death. And a kilometer earlier, on Hari Chandra Ghat, the dead, suicides, and accident victims are being set on fire. Nearby is an electric crematorium where beggars who have not raised money for firewood are burned. Although usually in Varanasi even the poorest have no problems with funerals. Wood that did not burn out in previous fires is given free of charge to families who do not have enough firewood. In Varanasi, you can always raise money among locals and tourists. After all, helping the family of the deceased is good for karma. But in poor villages there are problems with cremation. There is no one to help. And a body symbolically burned and thrown into the Ganges is not uncommon.

In places where dams form in the sacred river, there is even a profession - collecting corpses. The men sail the boat and collect the bodies, even diving into the water if necessary. Nearby, a body tied to a large stone slab is being loaded into a boat. It turns out that not all bodies can be burned. It is forbidden to cremate sadhus, because they abandoned work, family, sex and civilization, devoting their lives to meditation. Children under 13 are not burned, because it is believed that their bodies are like flowers. Accordingly, it is forbidden to set fire to pregnant women, because there are children inside. It is not possible to cremate a person with leprosy. All these categories of deceased are tied to a stone and drowned in the Ganges.

It is forbidden to cremate those killed by a cobra bite, which is not uncommon in India. It is believed that after the bite of this snake, not death occurs, but coma. Therefore, a boat is made from a banana tree, where the body wrapped in film is placed. A sign with your name and home address is attached to it. And they set sail on the Ganges. Sadhus meditating on the shore try to catch such bodies and try to bring them back to life through meditation.

They say successful outcomes are not uncommon. “Four years ago, 300 meters from Manikarnika, a hermit caught and revived the body. The family was so happy that they wanted to make the sadhu rich. But he refused, because if he took even one rupee, he would lose all his power,” Kashi Baba told me. Animals are not yet burned, because they are symbols of the gods. But what shocked me most of all was the terrible custom that existed until relatively recently - sati. Widow burning. When a husband dies, the wife must burn in the same fire. This is not a myth or a legend. According to Kashi Baba, this phenomenon was common some 90 years ago.

According to textbooks, widow burning was banned in 1929. But episodes of sati still happen today. Women cry a lot, so they are forbidden to be near the fire. But literally at the beginning of 2009, an exception was made for a widow from Agra. She wanted to say goodbye to her husband for the last time and asked to come to the fire. I jumped there, and when the fire was already burning with might and main. They rescued the woman, but she was badly burned and died before the doctors arrived. She was cremated in the same pyre as her betrothed.

The other side of the Ganges

On the other bank of the Ganges from the bustling Varanasi there are deserted expanses. Tourists are not recommended to appear there, because sometimes the village shantrap shows aggression. On opposite side The Ganga is washed by villagers, and pilgrims are brought there to bathe. Among the sands, a lonely hut made of branches and straw catches your eye. There lives a hermit sadhu with the divine name Ganesh. A man in his 50s moved here from the jungle 16 months ago to perform the puja ritual - burning food in a fire. Like a sacrifice to the gods. He likes to say, with or without reason: “I don’t need money - I need my puja.” In a year and four months, he burned 1,100,000 coconuts and an impressive amount of oil, fruit and other products.

He conducts meditation courses in his hut, which is how he earns money for his puja. For a man from a hut who drinks water from the Ganges, he speaks great English, is well acquainted with the products of the National Geographic Channel and invites me to write down his mobile number. Previously, Ganesh had a normal life; he still occasionally calls back his adult daughter and ex-wife: “One day I realized that I no longer wanted to live in the city, and I didn’t need a family. Now I’m in the jungle, in the forest, in the mountains or on the river bank.

I don’t need money - I need my puja." Contrary to the recommendations for visitors, I often swam to the other side of the Ganges to take a break from the endless noise and annoying crowds. Ganesh recognized me from afar, waved his hand and shouted: “Dima!” But even here , on the deserted shore of the other side of the Ganges, one can suddenly shudder. For example, seeing dogs tearing apart a human body washed ashore by the waves. Seeing, shuddering and remembering is Varanasi, the “city of death.”

Chronology of the process

If a person died in Varanasi, he is burned 5-7 hours after death. The reason for the rush is the heat. The body is washed, massaged with a mixture of honey, yogurt and various oils and mantras are read. All this in order to open the 7 chakras. Then they wrap it in a large white sheet and decorative fabric. They are placed on a stretcher made of seven bamboo crossbars - also according to the number of chakras.

Family members carry the body to the Ganges and chant the mantra: “Ram nam sagage” - a call to ensure that everything is fine in the next life of this person. The stretcher is dipped into the Ganges. Then the face of the deceased is uncovered, and relatives pour water on it with their hands five times. One of the men of the family shaves his head and dresses in white clothes. If the father died, the eldest son does it, if the mother does it, the younger son does it, if the wife does it, the husband does it. He sets fire to the branches from the sacred fire and walks around the body with them five times. Therefore, the body goes into the five elements: water, earth, fire, air, heaven.

You can only light a fire naturally. If a woman has died, they do not completely burn her pelvis; if a man, they do not burn her rib. The shaved man lets this burnt part of his body into the Ganges and extinguishes the smoldering coals from a bucket over his left shoulder.

At one time, Varanasi was an academic center as well as a religious one. Many temples were built in the city, universities operated and magnificent libraries with texts from Vedic times were opened. However, much was destroyed by the Muslims. Hundreds of temples were destroyed, bonfires with priceless manuscripts burned day and night, and people, the bearers of priceless ancient culture and knowledge, were also destroyed. However, the spirit of the Eternal City could not be defeated. You can feel it even now by walking through the narrow streets of old Varanasi and going down to the ghats (stone steps) on the Ganges River. Ghats are one of the hallmarks of Varanasi (as well as any sacred city for Hindus), as well as an important sacred place for millions of believers. They serve both for ritual ablution and for burning the dead. In general, ghats are the most popular place for the residents of Varanasi - on these steps they burn corpses, laugh, pray, die, walk, make friends, chat on the phone or just sit.

This city makes the strongest impression on travelers to India, despite the fact that Varanasi does not at all look like a “holiday for tourists”. Life in this sacred city is surprisingly tightly intertwined with death; It is believed that dying in Varanasi, on the banks of the Ganges River, is very honorable. Therefore, thousands of sick and old Hindus flock to Varanasi from all over the country to meet their death here and be freed from the hustle and bustle of life.

Not far from Varanasi is Sarnath, the place where Buddha preached. It is said that the tree growing in this place was planted from the seeds of the Bodhi tree, the same one under which the Buddha received self-realization.

The river embankment itself is a kind of huge temple, the service in which never stops - some pray, others meditate, others do yoga. The corpses of the dead are burned here. It is noteworthy that only the bodies of those who require ritual purification by fire are burned; and therefore the bodies of sacred animals (cows), monks, pregnant women are considered to have already been purified by suffering and, without being cremated, they are thrown into the Ganges. This is the main purpose of the ancient city of Varanasi - to give people the opportunity to free themselves from everything corruptible.

And yet, despite the mission that is incomprehensible, and even more so sad for non-Hindus, this city is a very real city with a population of one million. In the cramped and narrow streets you can hear the voices of people, music sounds, and the cries of merchants can be heard. There are shops everywhere where you can buy souvenirs from ancient vessels to saris embroidered with silver and gold.

The city, although it cannot be called clean, does not suffer as much from dirt and overcrowding as other Indian large cities - Bombay or Calcutta. However, for Europeans and Americans, the street of any Indian city resembles a giant anthill - there is a cacophony of horns, bicycle bells and shouts all around, and even on a rickshaw it turns out to be very difficult to squeeze through the narrow, albeit central streets.

Dead children under the age of 10, the bodies of pregnant women and smallpox patients are not cremated. A stone is tied to their body and thrown from a boat into the middle of the Ganges River. The same fate awaits those whose relatives cannot afford to buy enough wood. Cremation at the stake costs a lot of money and not everyone can afford it. Sometimes the purchased wood is not always enough for cremation, and then the half-burnt remains of the body are thrown into the river. It is quite common to see the charred remains of dead bodies floating in the river. An estimated 45,000 uncremated bodies are buried in the river bed each year, adding to the toxicity of already heavily polluted water. What shocks visiting Western tourists seems quite natural for Indians. Unlike Europe, where everything happens behind closed doors, in India, every aspect of life is visible on the streets, be it cremation, washing clothes, bathing or cooking.

The Ganga River was somehow miraculously able to cleanse itself for many centuries. Until 100 years ago, germs such as cholera could not survive in its sacred waters. Unfortunately, today the Ganga is one of the five most polluted rivers in the world. First of all, due to toxic substances discharged by industrial enterprises along the river bed. The level of contamination by some microbes exceeds permissible levels by hundreds of times. Visiting tourists are struck by the complete lack of hygiene. Ashes of the dead, sewage effluent and offerings float past worshipers as they bathe and perform purification ceremonies in the water. From a medical perspective, bathing in water containing decomposing corpses carries the risk of infections with numerous diseases, including hepatitis. It's a miracle that so many people take a dip and drink the water every day without feeling any harm. Some tourists even join the pilgrims.

Numerous cities located on the Ganges also contribute to the pollution of the river. Based on the report of the Central Pollution Control Board environment It follows that Indian cities recycle only about 30% of their sewage. Nowadays the Ganges, like many other rivers in India, is extremely clogged. It contains more sewage than fresh water. And industrial waste and the remains of cremated people accumulate along its banks.

Thus, the First City on Earth (as Varanasi is called in India) produces a strange and incredibly strong, indelible impact on tourists - it is impossible to compare it with anything, just as it is impossible to compare religions, peoples and cultures.

Based on materials

Dmitry Komarov

http://tourist-area.com, http://www.taringa.net, yaoayao.livejournal.com, http://masterok.livejournal.com/

Website materials used: http://infoglaz.ru/?p=14228

There are many interesting places on Earth that travelers flock to for various reasons. People go to some cities because of their beauty, to others because of delicious food or museums. And tourists go to the city of the dead Varanasi (India) to be horrified. There are a lot of stories about him scary stories, but the flow of visitors here is only increasing. Why? Let's talk about why Varanasi - the city of the dead in India - is so popular among tourists, what is true and what is fiction in the stories about this place.

Geographical position

Varanasi, the so-called city of the dead, is located in India, on the western bank of the Ganges River. This river is amazing because, unlike all the rivers in the Northern Hemisphere of the Earth, it does not flow from north to south, but, on the contrary, from south to north. Maybe that's why Hindus consider it sacred. Ganges is one of the 20 largest water arteries world, and its basin is the most populous in the world. The river irrigates fields, provides water to 400 million people, Hindus raft along it, wash with its water, etc. The city is located in the northeast of the country, almost 800 km from the capital of the state - Delhi. The most convenient way to get here is by plane, although the city is connected to other regions by rail and road.

Name

The name of the city of Varanasi, according to experts, comes from the names of two rivers: Assi and Varuna. Both rivers flow into the Ganges - one upstream, the other downstream. But this settlement has several more names. Local people call it Benares (an ancient name), Avimuktaka ("city that cannot be left"), Anandakanana, Mahasmasana, Surandhana, Brahma Vardha, Sudarshana, Ramya and Kashi ("shining city"). Hindus believe that it was created by Shiva, and sometimes refer to the deity as the Supreme Lord of the Shining City. Locals most often call it Kashi. And they believe that Varanasi is the center of space and time, it stands on the trident of Shiva and is located between heaven and earth.

Story

Varanasi appeared in ancient times, like many ancient cities in India. The Hill of the Dead, on which the city grew, was inhabited at least 5 thousand years ago. Exact date the foundation of the settlement is unknown. But in the Vedas of the second millennium BC. e. the city is mentioned as the place where the world began, as the center of the Universe. It has long been the center of Hinduism, a sacred city. In addition, Varanasi was a center of trade and a major religious and educational center. The city flourished, although it was repeatedly attacked by Muslims and more than once destroyed almost to the ground. But it is not for nothing that he is considered eternal, because he was resurrected again and again.

But in the 11th century, Muslim raids brought the city into decline, which intensified from the 13th to the 17th centuries, when Varanasi was ruled first by the Delhi Sultanate and then by the Mongol Empire. In the 17th century, the strengthening of the Maratha Empire and the gradual revival of the city began. It becomes the capital of the independent state of Kashi. At the end of the 18th century, this country came under the control of the British East India Company. British rule lasted until the mid-20th century. This time was quite prosperous for Varanasi. A railway and electricity were installed here, many trade and manufacturing enterprises were opened, a university and several institutes appeared here. At the same time, the city remained the center of Hinduism and culture. In the era of independence, Varanasi strengthens its position as the educational and economic center of the region. At the end of the 20th century, there were several conflicts on religious grounds, but gradually everything settled down. Today the city has temples of several religions, tourism is actively developing, industrial production is growing, and new cultural and educational institutions are opening. But for the whole world, the city still remains the most important center of Hinduism.

Holy City

Which city is the same age as Babylon, which place is considered one of the most contagious on Earth, where people come to die? This is all about Varanasi - the city of the dead in India. Photos from the streets and embankments of this city are not recommended for the faint of heart; only local residents can drink water from the river here, and tourists are better off not touching anything at all. All this is due to the fact that in Hinduism, Varanasi is the city in which it is best to die. According to local legend, Kashi is the city of Shiva. Therefore, you just have to want to come here, and the sins of three lives will be written off from your karma; if a person went to Varanasi, then he is destined for a good rebirth, and if he has already come to Kashi, then moksha is practically guaranteed for him. Anyone who dies in Varanasi is forever freed from the torment of rebirth. Even if a person died somewhere else, but was cremated in Kashi, it will have a positive effect on his karma. Therefore, any true Hindu dreams of being buried here. To cremate a person, you need about 400 kilograms of firewood and 4 hours of time. Therefore, people have to languish in line next to the corpses for a long time.

And Hindus also flock here who dream of giving up their lives in the Holy City. So they sit on the banks of the Ganges or wander around the city and wait for death. But, in addition to burial, people also go to Varanasi to take a bath in the sacred waters of the Ganges River.

Religious buildings

Any sacred place in the world is usually known for its churches and places of worship, but there are no places famous for their crematoria. Nowhere but Varanasi is the most unique city in India. The dead are burned in special temples called ghats, but ritual ablutions are also performed here. There are 84 such establishments in the city. Today you can burn bodies only at two sites: in the most famous ghat - Manikarnika, where fires have not gone out for several thousand years, and in Harishchandra. There are huge queues of people who have brought their loved ones for burial. At each site, between 400 and 600 bodies are burned daily. But besides the ghats, there are several in Varanasi where people meditate and pray. The most famous of them is Kashi Vishwanath, the temple of the Lord of existence, or Shiva. Every Hindu dreams of visiting this temple at least once, since this visit, together with a bath in the Ganges, grants moksha. The city also has several Buddhist temples and the famous Dhamek Stupa.

Rituals and rituals

Many people know that Varanasi is a city in India where the dead are burned. But cremation is still a relatively harmless rite. After all, there is also a tradition of simply releasing corpses along the Ganges River. Hindus also go to Varanasi to take a bath in the Ganges. These three main rituals attract people to the city great amount pilgrims. And they turn this place into something like chaos. Each ritual has a strict sequence of actions, its own prayers, but they are all performed in the same places - on the river bank. Therefore, here you can see dead bodies floating along the river or half-decomposed corpses washed up on the shore, next to them are the ashes of the bodies, in which burnt arms, legs, and heads are visible. And nearby, in the same river, people are washing themselves with a happy expression on their faces... The spectacle is truly for people with strong nerves.

Myths and truth about the City of the Dead

Varanasi (India) has acquired various legends and rumors during its unique life. If you believe all these stories, then the city appears to be the most terrible place on Earth. But in reality, everything does not quite correspond to stereotypical ideas. Let's look at the main ones.

It is believed that corpses are burned everywhere in Varanasi, and the dead are everywhere there. This is not entirely true. Bodies are burned only in two places on the embankment; in the rest of the city the dead are not visible.

There is an opinion that the Ganges is the dirtiest river in the world, because corpses float along it. And indeed it is. Corpses float down the river, sink to the bottom, and lie along the shore. According to experts, about 45 thousand uncremated bodies remain at the bottom of the Ganges every year. In addition, the ashes from burned people are also washed into the river. So, any infections can be found in the Ganges water, and therefore it is better to stay away from it. Although the Hindus themselves not only wash themselves in it, but even drink this water and continue to live peacefully.

People also think that there is nothing more to see in Varanasi except cremation rites. It's not like that at all. The city is full of various cultural and sporting events; there are restaurants, discos, and shops. Everything is like in any big city.

Attractions

Varanasi is the city of the dead in India, but not only. It is also a large city, in which, in addition to religious rituals, life is in full swing, including cultural life. In addition to the ghats, tourists are recommended to look at the university building - this is an excellent example of colonial architecture. The red temple of Goddess Durga is worth seeing. It is home to flocks of monkeys, which is why it is sometimes called the Monkey Temple. Another attraction is the Bharat Mata Temple, where the inauguration ceremony of M. Gandhi took place. The city also has several museums and exhibition halls where you can learn about local history and culture.

City life

The City of the Dead Varanasi (India) is a large population center, home to more than 1.5 million people, with a population density of almost 1,000 people per square kilometer. In addition, there are many pilgrims and tourists here, so the streets are very noisy and crowded. Transport is usually crowded, drivers drive according to rules only known to them. So this city does not allow you to relax and unwind.

Varanasi is a major economic center and has many shops and markets. The main industry is related to the manufacture of Benares silk, the best in India. Luxurious saris are made from it, which are very expensive, but these outfits also look like real works of art. There are also many craft workshops in Varanasi: bone and wood carvers, potters, tanners, blacksmiths. Their products make excellent souvenirs.

Instructions for use

There are special rules that must be followed when arriving in the city of the dead in India. You can only take photos of people and rituals in Varanasi for money. If a tourist starts photographing a cremation or people on the shore, they immediately demand money or a permit, which can also be purchased. If a tourist refuses to pay, they may take away his camera or phone and even beat him. Another danger is monkeys. There are a lot of them here, and they drag everything they see. Therefore, doors and windows in the hotel must be closed, and nothing should be left unattended anywhere. It is better to move around the city by taxi and with a local guide. Since single tourists are immediately surrounded by a crowd of beggars and scammers.

Varanasi is rightfully considered the sacred capital of India. In addition to its official name, it is often called the “city of the dead.” A little later you will find out why. Today, Varanasi is one of the oldest cities not only in India, but throughout the world. When studying, scientists came to the conclusion that it is more than 3,000 years old. The local population believes that the city was founded by the god Shiva, and he has already exchanged the fifth millennium. In any case, all such cities, for example Babylon, have long been destroyed, but Varanasi is still standing and thriving.

This article is intended to tell about the sights of this amazing city, however, the territory of Varanasi itself is one great historical heritage. The most interesting places are located closer to the river. There are entire neighborhoods with narrow streets where secret rituals were once held. They are literally imbued with numerous legends and traditions. A trip to Varanasi will bring a lot of pleasure and will surprise anyone, even the most experienced tourist. Many who come here call their first impression of the city “culture shock.” But first things first.

Geography of Varanasi

The oldest buildings are located closer to the coast. This is due to the fact that the ancient city was built along the course of the sacred Ganges River on its western bank. The eastern shore was empty all the time. There was a legend that Shiva sent the souls of the dead here. Even today, cremations and ritual burials take place on the eastern shore. Residents of the city believe that cremations held here give peace to the soul and send it to better world. That is why Varanasi is called the “city of the dead”. Arriving in India, it is worth visiting this city, because only here you can think about existence, and then go on your journey with peace of mind.

Ghats

It is impossible not to notice that the ghats are considered the most important place for pilgrimage. In addition, this is one of the main local attractions that tourists love to visit. Ghats are large, stepped-type structures on the banks of a river that are used for the ablution and cremation of the dead. The oldest ghats are located in Varanasi and are more than six thousand years old. There are 84 ghats in the city, varying in structure. Let's get acquainted with the most important of them.

Ghat Assi. This is one of the most important ghats of Varanasi. It is located in the southern part of the city. Mentions of it can be found in ancient Indian literature in many famous works: Matsya Purana, Karma Purana and so on. There is a legend according to which the goddess Durga killed the demon Shumbha-Nishumbha with her sword. The Assi River originates from the place where the battle once took place. At the confluence of two rivers today there is a ghat of the same name.

Ghat Gheta Singh. This is a huge ghat divided into 4 parts. In the 18th century, a bloody battle took place at this place between Warren's army and Singh's detachment. At the beginning of the 20th century, the ghat, along with the British fort located next door, was forcibly annexed by Maharaja Prabha. Three magnificent Shiva temples were founded on the territory of the ghat back in the 18th century, which until the 20th century were the main cultural center of Varanasi. It was here that the Bulkhwa Mangal festival began to be held for the first time, which has not been forgotten to this day. Bathing is not done at this ghat due to the high flow of the Ganges.

Ghat Dasaswamedh. It received this name because Brahma sacrificed (medh) 10 (das) horses (asva) here. Dasaswamedh Ghat is one of the most popular and visited places by tourists. And all because there is a special atmosphere that helps you feel the sacred city from the inside.

Ghat Gai. This is the most spiritual ghat in Asia. Just like the others, it has a staircase arrangement and descends directly to the Ganges River. From here there is a magnificent view of ritual activities and the everyday life of ordinary people.

Ghat Harish Ghandra. They named it after the famous mythical ruler. Harish Ghat is one of several cremation facilities and is also the oldest ghat among its brethren. A crematorium using electricity was opened here at the end of the 20th century. However, the standard method of cremation at the ghat is still used. Photography or filming is strictly prohibited. If you are seen with a camera, the police may be called.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple

This is one of the most famous Hindu temples not only in Varanasi but throughout the world. This is a small building, hidden from view in a labyrinth of streets and alleys. It has several domes, but even them are difficult to see if you are within the city. The city is so densely built up. To see the holy place, you will have to climb to the roof of a neighboring house. This is the only thing vacationers can count on, because only Indians are allowed to enter. The Kashi Temple is unique in that about a ton of gold was used to cast the domes. The main exhibit of the structure is the Adi Visheashvara lingam. It is located on the floor, on a metal dish, surrounded by plants and fruits. It is not difficult to guess that the temple was built in honor of Shiva. Millions of Hindus come for the pilgrimage every year. Such an event can be compared to a visit to Mecca.

Kedareshwar

Kedareshwar is one of the few ancient temples that has remained virtually unchanged since its foundation. It reached contemporaries almost in its original form. The temple was built during the reign of Ballala II. Kedareshwar, like the others, is dedicated to Shiva and is considered one of the most revered shrines in India. Today it attracts the interest of scientists and tourists. This is due to the fact that the shrine is located right on the banks of the Ganges, and most importantly, it has never undergone fundamental changes. So, by studying this place, you can safely draw conclusions about the life and culture of the city in that distant era. Getting to it is much easier, and you can admire the beauty from a boat, sailing past.

Sarnath

This is not a landmark of Varanasi, but just a suburb of it. However, this does not detract from its merits. The main difference between this temple and others will be its religious orientation. Buddhists come to Sarnath to worship. There is a legend that Buddha first came to this place to read his sermons. The location of the temple was chosen specifically. According to historical data, on the site of the ancient city there was once a small forest settlement, where philosophers, writers and other scientific minds came from all over the world in order to learn the truth and learn a lot of new things. So you can believe the legend, because Buddha simply could not visit a place where there was no knowledge.

Today, most of The suburb of Sarnath has been destroyed and is a ruin that was discovered only during excavations. However, this does not prevent tourists from coming here and visiting, in addition to the ruins, the historical museum, where you can see ancient tools and objects found during excavations. Also, many pilgrims come here who dream of paying tribute to these sacred places.

Ramnagar Fort

This is an amazing attraction, and all because, being in the holy city, it does not belong to any religion. The fort was located on the other side of the river, opposite the city. However, there are no problems with access, since there is a modern, convenient bridge between it and Varanasi. The fort was founded in the mid-18th century and was used as the residence of the dynasty of the same name. The Ramnagar fort is decorated in the Mongolian style with tracery windows and numerous minarets. Why Mongolian style? This is due to the fact that for a long time this territory of India was ruled by the Mughals, who professed Islam. Thanks to them, a lot of things from the city simply have not reached the present day. After the capture of Varanasi by Muslims, most of the temples were destroyed and mosques were erected in their place.

Currently, the fort is not only a famous landmark of extraordinary beauty, but also an interesting museum where you can see household items, clothes, shoes, and jewelry of the Maharajas. The weapons room, which contains magnificent examples of that time, inlaid with precious metals, deserves special attention. This place is definitely worth a visit.

Bharat Kala Bhavan Museum

This is another attraction of Varanasi that deserves special attention. The museum with a complex name is located on the campus of a famous higher educational institution. The museum is famous for its huge collection of sculptures, paintings, old records, books, luxury items, weapons, statues and so on. Moreover, not only Hindu luxury goods were collected, but Buddhist ones. A tour of the Bharat Kala Bhavan Museum will appeal to lovers of aesthetics who will see the uniqueness of the local culture.

Durga Temple

If after a long journey you do not know where to go, then visit the temple founded in honor of the goddess Durga. It has another name - Monkey Temple. This is due to the fact that there are a lot of monkeys on its territory. This is probably the only reason why most tourists come here. You can chat with the monkeys and take pictures. By the way, there are already so many of these animals in the city itself, sometimes they even become very annoying to local residents. However, it is prohibited by law to abuse monkeys in any way. When playing with a furry animal, be careful, not all of them are so kind. Many individuals are distinguished by their aggressiveness and sharp fangs.

The Durga temple itself is a very interesting place. It was built by Indian craftsmen entirely from rare red stone, which has amazing engraving throughout its entire area. Right at the entrance to the temple there is an artificial, but incredibly beautiful pond.

Just like Shiva, the goddess Durga is respected among Hindus, because she is the protector of the city and has saved the population from troubles many times. The temple is located in close proximity to the Bharat Museum. So, if you decide to visit the temple, then be sure to go to the museum.

Here are some attractions in Varanasi. In fact, there are many more of them, but it will take a very long time to describe them. It’s worth visiting the city in person and seeing with your own eyes all the beauty that has been preserved after many millennia.

They say that Varanasi is the oldest city on earth.
So we can say that this is the city of the dead.
I don’t know how old it is, but it’s the dirtiest, that’s for sure.
It doesn’t matter if you don’t pay attention to the cow poop under your feet and the smell of urine from the sidewalks, and so many beautiful and interesting things immediately open up!
Especially from the Ganga side.

In the meantime, take a taxi from the airport to your booked hotel (I can recommend it: it’s called Ganpati Guesthouse, we push through the hustle and bustle of Varanasi city traffic.

And the place itself - Varanasi - is generally the most sacred: this is the place where Shiva went into nirvana in the form of a pillar of fire.
Tourists (at their request, of course) are shown an unquenchable fire that has been burning in this place for more than 3,000 years.

Varanasi stretched along the river, as more and more were gradually built ghats(steps leading to the water) where important ceremonies for Hindus take place in which not the least, but let’s say, the most important role is played by the water of the Ganges.

Transfer from Varanasi airport

A taxi from the airport to the city costs 400 rubles, the ride is about an hour.
IN Ganpati Guesthouse I booked a room with a balcony and a river view and was right: the view is stunning.
There is a restaurant on the roof of the guest house: there is meat (chicken), there is beer. Prices are normal.
Guest room 55 bucks (air conditioning, shower, toilet). Free Internet wi-fi

In our world there are many interesting, unknown and amazing things, the existence of which we do not even suspect. Planet Earth is full of strange, unusual, dark and even shocking things, the existence of which will always remain a mystery to us. Why is this happening? Who came up with this? And why is this necessary? It can be difficult for us to answer these questions, or, knowing the answer, measure ourselves against the truth. This topic tells about the culture of another people, whose rituals often shock us. This always happens with people who do not belong to this kind of life existence.

Each religion has its own sacred city, which is a place of mass pilgrimage and carries paramount cult significance. In Judaism - Jerusalem, in Catholicism - the Vatican, in Islam - Mecca, in Hinduism - Varanasi. Millions of pilgrims come to worship every year in all the cities listed above, except for the city of Varanasi. Everyone who professes Hinduism comes to Varanasi not only to worship, but also dreams of dying here and burning their body.

Varanasi is the main city of the region of the same name in northeastern India, in the state of Uttar Pradesh. The city has the same meaning for Hindus as the Vatican for Catholics. Considered a holy city for Buddhists and Jains, the holiest place in the world in Hinduism, as the center of the Earth in Hindu cosmology. One of the oldest cities in the world and possibly the oldest in India.

According to legends, the city was founded by the god Shiva about 5,000 years ago and therefore Varanasi is one of the most important pilgrimage sites in India. Varanasi is one of the seven holy cities of Hinduism. Here, more strongly than anywhere else, the contradictions of life and death, hope and suffering, youth and old age, joy and despair, splendor and poverty are manifested. This is a city in which there is so much death and life at the same time, in which eternity and existence coexist, and in this place you can see what real India is like.

According to Hinduism, Varanasi serves as the border between physical reality and the eternity of life. Here the gods descend to earth, and a mere mortal achieves bliss. It is a holy place to live and a blessed place to die.

Varanasi is believed to be about 3000 years old. For thousands of years, the city was a center of philosophy, theosophy, medicine and education. Many famous and revered Indian philosophers, poets, writers and musicians lived here. The main reason to visit Varanasi is, of course, to see the Ganges River. The significance of the river for Hindus is beyond description. It is one of the 20 largest rivers in the world. The Ganges River basin is the most densely populated in the world, with a population of over 400 million people. The Ganga is an important source of irrigation and communication for millions of Indians living along the riverbed. Since time immemorial she has been worshiped as the goddess Ganga. Historically, a number of capitals of former principalities were located on its banks.

Before dawn, the banks of the Ganges come alive as thousands of pilgrims descend on the river to greet the rising sun and immerse themselves in the river, cleansing themselves of suffering and washing away their sins. Every day, more than 60,000 people come to the river bank to take a dip in the sacred waters of the Ganges, offering their prayers to the forces of nature, the rising sun, deceased ancestors, carried away by the waters of the sacred river. People are drawn to the river by the firm belief that water can remove the sins of many generations.

Varanasi is famous for its ghats. This is a chain of stone steps going down to the water. Each of the 100 ghats has its own lingam, the so-called male organ Shiva. Most of the ghats are for bathing, some of them are used for cremation of bodies. Death is good business in Varanasi. The weak, sick and elderly come to the city to die. Death on the banks of the river of life means eternal bliss. Thus, for centuries, Hindus came to Varanasi to die or to bring the ashes of the dead to scatter them over the holy waters of the Ganges River.

Cremation here serves as a rite. According to Hindu tradition, after the death of a person, the body is ritually washed and then burned at the stake, then the ashes are scattered over the Ganges. Every day, in the city, 200-300 people are cremated on the banks. That is, burning takes place here around the clock! The body is carried on a bamboo stretcher through the streets of the old city, then dipped into the river, and then undergoes the cremation process. The deceased is wrapped in cloth and a garland of flowers.

Dead children under the age of 10, the bodies of pregnant women and smallpox patients are not cremated. A stone is tied to their body and thrown from the boat into the middle of the river. The same fate awaits those whose relatives cannot afford to buy enough wood. Cremation at the stake costs a lot of money and not everyone can afford it. Sometimes the purchased wood is not always enough for cremation, and then the half-burnt remains of the body are thrown into the river. It is quite common to see the charred remains of dead bodies floating in the river. An estimated 45,000 uncremated bodies are buried in the river bed each year, adding to the toxicity of already heavily polluted water.

Today the Ganges is one of the most polluted rivers in the world. The level of pollution exceeds permissible levels by hundreds of times. The complete lack of hygiene is striking. Ashes of the dead, charred bodies, sewage and offerings float down the river as bathing and purification ceremonies take place. The most amazing thing is that people bathe in this water every day and drink water from the river. From a medical point of view, this will lead to numerous diseases. But what a miracle - no one feels harm.

To completely burn the body, it takes up to half a ton of wood and about 4 hours of time. The simplest ceremony, in which the body is burned to ashes, costs from 60 US dollars. There is no upper price range for such a ceremony. There have been cases where cremation took place using sandalwood firewood, a kilogram of which costs US$160. There is a profession on the ghats whose job is to collect corpses. Workers of this type of profession swim on a boat and collect bodies, even diving into the water if necessary. They load it into a boat, tie the body to a large stone slab and throw it into the water.

People who die from a cobra bite are also not cremated. It is believed that they did not die, but fell into a coma. IN in this case A raft is made from a banana tree, the wrapped body is placed on it, a sign is attached with the name and home address, and it is launched on the Ganges.

Another amazing fact. 90 years ago, if a husband died, then the widow had to burn alive in the same fire. Now officially in Varanasi, such a ritual has not taken place for 90 years, but no one knows what is happening on the banks of the Ganges, upstream or downstream, outside the city. However, in 2009, the incident did occur. The widow wanted to say goodbye to her husband and asked to come to the fire. When the fire was burning, the widow jumped into the fire. The woman was rescued, but died due to burns before the doctors arrived.

Yet Varanasi also has a downside. The city is crowded with cars, trucks, buses, rickshaws, bicycles, carts, people, goats, cows and buffaloes. City air is incredibly polluted. The streets are in very poor condition, there is often no asphalt or sidewalks, and cows rummage through street garbage. Varanasi is impressive and shocking.

Feeling ancient history visible on every corner, street and house. The labyrinthine narrow streets are filled with pilgrims buying flowers for prayer, mourning relatives carrying the dead, and singing. Varanasi is a city in modern world, living according to ancient traditions, where culture and rituals have been preserved in their original form.